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Minnesota does not have one planting date. It has at least three growing seasons stacked on top of each other: about 140 frost-free days around Duluth, about 144 around St. Cloud, and about 176 in the Twin Cities, all from the same NOAA 1991–2020 climate normals. Plant by your frost dates and your zone, not by a national calendar, and a short-season garden in the north can outproduce a late-planted garden in the south.
This calendar covers 25 common vegetables for Minnesota gardens, in three bands: north (Zones 3–4, anchored on Duluth), central (Zone 4, anchored on St. Cloud), and south (Zones 4b–5, anchored on Minneapolis–St. Paul). Check your exact zone on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map — a hardiness zone measures how cold your winters get, which matters for perennials; your frost dates decide when annual vegetables go in. The planting windows below follow University of Minnesota Extension’s statewide schedule for planting the vegetable garden, reviewed in 2026. Days to maturity come from the variety pages at Botanical Interests, checked October 27, 2026 — see the varieties note at the bottom of this page.
Minnesota frost dates that anchor these tables
These are the 50%-probability dates for 32°F from NOAA’s 1991–2020 U.S. Climate Normals: in a typical year, there is about a 50% chance of a 32°F freeze after the spring date, and about a 50% chance of one before the fall date. Plan on the cautious side of them — a 50% date is a coin flip, not a guarantee. Your own yard can run warmer or colder depending on elevation, slope, and nearby water.
| Band | Anchor station | Last spring freeze (50%) | First fall freeze (50%) | Frost-free days |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| North — Zones 3–4 | Duluth, MN (USW00014913, 1,428 ft) | May 13 | October 1 | 140 |
| Central — Zone 4 | St. Cloud Regional Airport, MN (USW00014926, 1,018 ft) | May 7 | September 30 | 144 |
| South — Zones 4b–5 | Minneapolis/St. Paul Airport, MN (USW00014922, 872 ft) | April 23 | October 18 | 176 |
One more check before any date below: soil temperature. Extension’s rule is that soil temperature, measured with a thermometer, is the best indicator for when to plant. Direct-seed peas, spinach, lettuce, and radish when the soil is 40–50°F. Warm-season crops want soil at 50–60°F, and heat-lovers such as tomatoes and peppers do best with still warmer soil and no frost risk. A warm week in April does not mean the soil has caught up.
How to read the tables
Each band’s table uses the same 25 crops. “Start indoors” follows Extension’s statewide indoor-starting schedule. “Plant outdoors” follows Extension’s outdoor schedule, shifted for warm-season crops by each band’s last-frost anchor: central runs about two weeks behind the Twin Cities, north about three weeks. Cool-season sowing windows are Extension’s single statewide schedule — use the late end of each window in the north. “Harvest window” is the outdoor planting window plus the variety’s days to maturity, capped at the band’s first fall freeze; tender crops stop at that freeze, and hardy crops such as kale keep going until a hard freeze. Where Extension and a seed packet disagree, the table shows the range. Harden off every transplant before it goes out — our guide to hardening off seedlings walks through the steps.
South — Zones 4b–5 (Minneapolis–St. Paul anchor: last frost April 23, first frost October 18)
| Crop | Start indoors | Plant outdoors | Harvest window | Key note |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Peas | — (direct sow) | Mid-April–early May | June–July | 60–70 days to maturity; 60 for ‘Oregon Sugar Pod II’, 70 for ‘Sugar Snap’. |
| Lettuce | Early March (head lettuce) | Mid-April–mid-June; again in August | May–July; September–October from August sowing | 21–65 days; cut-and-come-again types keep producing if picked regularly. |
| Spinach | — (direct sow) | Mid-April; again in August | May–June; September–October | 28–45 days; bolts in summer heat, so spring and fall sowings do best. |
| Radish | — (direct sow) | Mid-April–mid-May; again in August | May–June; September | 24 days; one of the fastest crops in the garden. |
| Carrots | — (does not transplant well) | Mid-April–early June | Late June–first frost | 57–65 days; 57 for ‘Little Finger’, 65 for ‘Danvers 126’. |
| Beets | — (does not transplant well) | Mid-April–mid-June | July–first frost | 60 days; thin seedlings so roots have room to size up. |
| Kale | — (direct sow) | Mid-April–early July | June until hard frost | 21–62 days; tolerates light frost and keeps growing in cool weather. |
| Swiss chard | — (direct sow) | Early May | June–first frost | 20–50 days from baby leaves to full size. |
| Arugula | — (direct sow) | Mid-April–mid-June; again in August | May–June; September | 20–45 days; cold- and frost-tolerant salad green — see the sources note. |
| Broccoli | Early March | Mid-April (transplants) | June–July | 75 days; a second, early-June planting gives autumn heads. |
| Cabbage | Early March (early); mid-April (late) | Early–mid-April (early); early June (late) | June–August | 65–80 days depending on variety. |
| Cauliflower | Early March | Mid-April (transplants) | Late June–August | 70–80 days; needs steady water to head well. |
| Onion | Early February (transplants) | Mid-April (sets and transplants) | August | 100–125 days; harvest when necks are tight and scales are dry, then cure before storing. |
| Potatoes | — | Mid-April–mid-May | August–September | Plant certified seed stock; dig when the vines die back. |
| Turnip | — (direct sow) | Early August (fall crop) | Late September–October | 50 days; a fall crop that sizes up in cool weather. |
| Parsnip | — (direct sow) | Early May | Fall, after a light frost | Slow to germinate; flavor improves after frost. |
| Tomatoes | Early April | Mid-to-late May, after last frost | Mid-July–mid-October | 55–80 days from transplanting; 55 for ‘Glacier’, 80 for ‘Cherokee Purple’. |
| Peppers | Mid-March | Early June, after last frost | Mid-August–mid-October | 75–90 days from transplanting; needs warm soil — do not rush it out. |
| Snap beans | — (direct sow) | Mid-May–early July | Mid-July–mid-October | 58–63 days; sow in succession for a steady pick. |
| Summer squash | — (transplants also work) | Mid-May, after last frost | Early July–mid-October | 50–55 days; pick young and pick often. |
| Winter squash | — (transplants also work) | Mid-May, after last frost | September–mid-October, before frost | 80–100 days; 80 for acorn types, 100 for ‘Waltham’ butternut. |
| Cucumbers | — (hot caps help) | Early May–early June | July–mid-October | 62 days; warm soil matters more than an early start. |
| Sweet corn | — (direct sow) | Mid-May–mid-June | Late July–September | 75 days; needs 60°F-plus soil to germinate well. |
| Eggplant | Mid-March | Early June, after last frost | Late August–mid-October | 80 days from transplanting; the most heat-hungry crop on this list. |
| Basil | Start indoors | After last frost | July–first frost | Transplant after frost risk passes; days to maturity was not stated on the variety page checked. |
Central — Zone 4 (St. Cloud anchor: last frost May 7, first frost September 30)
Central Minnesota runs about two weeks behind the Twin Cities on warm-season planting, and its first fall freeze arrives about two and a half weeks sooner. Cool-season windows below match the south table — Extension publishes one statewide schedule for those crops — but use the late end of each window here, and count on a shorter finish for anything frost-tender.
| Crop | Start indoors | Plant outdoors | Harvest window | Key note |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Peas | — (direct sow) | Mid-April–early May | June–July | 60–70 days to maturity. |
| Lettuce | Early March (head lettuce) | Mid-April–mid-June; again in August | May–July; September from August sowing | 21–65 days; fall sowing must finish before the September 30 freeze. |
| Spinach | — (direct sow) | Mid-April; again in August | May–June; September | 28–45 days. |
| Radish | — (direct sow) | Mid-April–mid-May; again in August | May–June; September | 24 days. |
| Carrots | — (does not transplant well) | Mid-April–early June | Late June–first frost | 57–65 days. |
| Beets | — (does not transplant well) | Mid-April–mid-June | July–first frost | 60 days. |
| Kale | — (direct sow) | Mid-April–early July | June until hard frost | 21–62 days; one of the last crops standing in fall. |
| Swiss chard | — (direct sow) | Early May | June–first frost | 20–50 days. |
| Arugula | — (direct sow) | Mid-April–mid-June; again in August | May–June; September | 20–45 days; cold- and frost-tolerant. |
| Broccoli | Early March | Mid-April (transplants) | June–July | 75 days. |
| Cabbage | Early March (early); mid-April (late) | Early–mid-April (early); early June (late) | June–August | 65–80 days. |
| Cauliflower | Early March | Mid-April (transplants) | Late June–August | 70–80 days. |
| Onion | Early February (transplants) | Mid-April (sets and transplants) | August | 100–125 days; harvest when necks are tight, then cure. |
| Potatoes | — | Mid-April–mid-May | August–September | Dig when the vines die back. |
| Turnip | — (direct sow) | Early August (fall crop) | Late September | 50 days; sow on time — the September 30 freeze is the deadline. |
| Parsnip | — (direct sow) | Early May | Fall, after a light frost | Flavor improves after frost. |
| Tomatoes | Early April | Late May–early June, after last frost | Late July–late September | 55–80 days from transplanting; earliest varieties earn their keep here. |
| Peppers | Mid-March | Early–mid-June, after last frost | Late August–late September | 75–90 days from transplanting. |
| Snap beans | — (direct sow) | Late May–early July | Late July–late September | 58–63 days. |
| Summer squash | — (transplants also work) | Late May, after last frost | Mid-July–late September | 50–55 days. |
| Winter squash | — (transplants also work) | Late May, after last frost | September, before frost | 80–100 days; favor 80-day acorn types over 100-day butternut. |
| Cucumbers | — (hot caps help) | Mid-May–mid-June | Mid-July–late September | 62 days. |
| Sweet corn | — (direct sow) | Late May–late June | Early August–late September | 75 days; pick earliest varieties. |
| Eggplant | Mid-March | Early–mid-June, after last frost | Early September–late September | 80 days from transplanting; a tight fit — start indoors on time. |
| Basil | Start indoors | After last frost (May 7) | July–first frost | Days to maturity was not stated on the variety page checked. |
North — Zones 3–4 (Duluth anchor: last frost May 13, first frost October 1)
The north has the shortest season on this page — 140 frost-free days at the Duluth airport station — and the latest last frost. Warm-season crops go out about three weeks later than in the Twin Cities, and the whole warm-season harvest compresses into August and September. That is not a reason to skip tomatoes or squash; it is a reason to pick the earliest varieties and to start peppers, eggplant, and tomatoes indoors on Extension’s schedule, not later. Cool-season crops are the north’s strength: peas, greens, roots, and brassicas do the heavy lifting from April to October.
| Crop | Start indoors | Plant outdoors | Harvest window | Key note |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Peas | — (direct sow) | Mid-April–early May | June–July | 60–70 days to maturity. |
| Lettuce | Early March (head lettuce) | Mid-April–mid-June; again in August | May–July; September from August sowing | 21–65 days. |
| Spinach | — (direct sow) | Mid-April; again in August | May–June; September | 28–45 days. |
| Radish | — (direct sow) | Mid-April–mid-May; again in August | May–June; September | 24 days. |
| Carrots | — (does not transplant well) | Mid-April–early June | Late June–first frost | 57–65 days. |
| Beets | — (does not transplant well) | Mid-April–mid-June | July–first frost | 60 days. |
| Kale | — (direct sow) | Mid-April–early July | June until hard frost | 21–62 days; the most forgiving fall crop here. |
| Swiss chard | — (direct sow) | Early May | June–first frost | 20–50 days. |
| Arugula | — (direct sow) | Mid-April–mid-June; again in August | May–June; September | 20–45 days; cold- and frost-tolerant. |
| Broccoli | Early March | Mid-April (transplants) | June–July | 75 days. |
| Cabbage | Early March (early); mid-April (late) | Early–mid-April (early); early June (late) | June–August | 65–80 days. |
| Cauliflower | Early March | Mid-April (transplants) | Late June–August | 70–80 days. |
| Onion | Early February (transplants) | Mid-April (sets and transplants) | August | 100–125 days; harvest when necks are tight, then cure. |
| Potatoes | — | Mid-April–mid-May | August–September | Dig when the vines die back. |
| Turnip | — (direct sow) | Early August (fall crop) | Late September | 50 days; the October 1 freeze is the deadline. |
| Parsnip | — (direct sow) | Early May | Fall, after a light frost | Flavor improves after frost. |
| Tomatoes | Early April | Early–mid-June, after last frost | August–October 1 | 55–80 days from transplanting; plant ‘Glacier’ (55 days) first and treat 80-day types as a gamble. |
| Peppers | Mid-March | Mid-June, after last frost | Late August–October 1 | 75–90 days from transplanting. |
| Snap beans | — (direct sow) | Early June–early July | Late July–October 1 | 58–63 days. |
| Summer squash | — (transplants also work) | Early June, after last frost | Mid-July–October 1 | 50–55 days. |
| Winter squash | — (transplants also work) | Early June, after last frost | September, before frost | 80–100 days; 80-day acorn types are the safe pick this far north. |
| Cucumbers | — (hot caps help) | Late May–mid-June | Late July–October 1 | 62 days. |
| Sweet corn | — (direct sow) | Early–late June | Mid-August–October 1 | 75 days; earliest varieties only. |
| Eggplant | Mid-March | Mid-June, after last frost | Early–late September | 80 days from transplanting; the tightest fit on this page. |
| Basil | Start indoors | After last frost (May 13) | July–first frost | Days to maturity was not stated on the variety page checked. |
Fall succession: the second season hiding in August
Extension’s schedule has a second planting season built in. Leaf lettuce, radishes, and kohlrabi sown in mid-April can be sown again in August for a fall harvest, and turnips sown in early August mature in about 50 days — which lands just ahead of the north and central first freezes if sown on time. The rule for any August sowing is simple arithmetic: count back from your band’s first fall freeze, and only sow crops whose days to maturity fit inside the days left. Kale and spinach are the most forgiving fall sowings because they tolerate light frost and keep growing in cool weather. Our guide to growing salad greens from seed covers the cut-and-come-again approach that makes fall greens productive.
Varieties behind the maturity figures
The days-to-maturity figures in the tables come from the variety pages in Botanical Interests’ vegetable seed collection, checked October 27, 2026: ‘Glacier’ tomato (55 days from transplanting), ‘Sugar Snap’ pea (70 days), ‘Danvers 126’ carrot (65 days), ‘Black Beauty’ summer squash (55 days), ‘Waltham’ butternut squash (100 days), ‘Buttercrunch’ lettuce (21–65 days), ‘Kentucky Wonder’ pole bean (63 days), and ‘Spacemaster’ cucumber (62 days), with the rest of the figures from the same variety pages. Where a crop has both an early and a late variety on the market, the table shows the range. Seed-starting gear lives in the seed-starting collection if you need trays or heat mats; our beginner’s guide to starting seeds indoors covers the setup.
Keep going: timing and varieties by crop
For the crop-by-crop detail behind these windows, start with the best vegetable seeds for beginners, then when to start tomato seeds indoors in Zone 4 and starting peppers indoors: timing and heat. The full method is in how to start tomato seeds indoors; if seedlings stretch and go leggy, why seedlings go leggy — and how to fix them has the causes. Variety picks live in 7 tomato varieties that ripen in short growing seasons, the best sweet and hot pepper varieties, the best lettuce and greens for cut-and-come-again harvests, and the best carrot, beet, and radish varieties.
Sources
Frost dates: NOAA National Centers for Environmental Information, U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020, Summary of Annual Normals freeze-data tables (50%-probability, 32°F) — Duluth USW00014913, St. Cloud USW00014926, and Minneapolis/St. Paul USW00014922 (Minnesota DNR-hosted copies of the NOAA tables). Planting windows and soil temperatures: University of Minnesota Extension, Planting the vegetable garden (reviewed 2026) and Harvesting and storing home garden vegetables. Zone boundaries: USDA 2023 Plant Hardiness Zone Map (ARS / Oregon State PRISM). Days to maturity: Botanical Interests variety pages, checked October 27, 2026. A Rochester station table could not be verified from the NOAA normals files and was left out rather than estimated; the south band is anchored on Minneapolis–St. Paul.
